MP Rotator heads

!±8± MP Rotator heads

This is a property I installed MP Rotator sprinkler nozzles on. This type of irrigation nozzle puts out a stream type of spray which rotates, as you can see in the video. These nozzles use about 1/3 of the standard nozzle water volume and therefore are great when you are working with low water volume. Also useful for conserving water. They come in a variety of configurations - radius and arc variations from 10' to 30' and 90 deg. to full circle. You can just buy the nozzle or a complete head with nozzle. Available from Hunter and Rainbird. The nozzles are female threaded as are all Rainbird and Hunters, and come with their own screen which clips onto the bottom of the nozzle. Adjustment is easy. The turf area featured in the video had been struggling for a period of time before I went to these nozzles and as you can see we have achieved a beautiful lush condition now - so the owners puppy can enjoy his time in his little sideyard. :) The MP stands for matched precipitation, BTW.

MP Rotator heads

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Install A Permanent, In-Ground Sprinkler System To Save Time And Water

!±8± Install A Permanent, In-Ground Sprinkler System To Save Time And Water

Do you have a very large lawn or plan to plant a very large lawn? If you do, you probably want to consider installing a permanent, in-ground sprinkler system to relive the chore of watering your lawn. There are several advantages to installing a permanent, in-ground sprinkler system:

1. Full Automation

The permanent, in-ground sprinkler system can be hook up to a timer and your lawn will receive the water it need without your intervention. Simply set the timer to the time you want your lawn to receive water (usually in the morning) and you are done.

2. Even Distribution of Water

You decide where your sprinkler heads will be placed so that your lawn will be evenly watered without runoff. Of course, this requires some planning and you may want to engage a lawn care consultant to help you.

3. Save water

By connecting the permanent, in-ground sprinkler system to appropriate sensors, you can water your lawn only when it is necessary. For example, you can connect a soil moisture sensor and your permanent, in-ground sprinkler system will kick into action when it detect that there is not enough moisture in the soil.

You can also connect it to a rain sensor so that the permanent, in-ground sprinkler system will shut off automatically when it rains.

4. Flexibility

A permanent, in-ground sprinkler system gives you a lot of flexibility. You have full control on how much water to apply, when to apply water, which part of the lawn to water and the spray pattern that you want to use for watering your lawn.

After you have installed a permanent, in-ground sprinkler system, you still have to keep an eye on the system to ensure that it is working properly. You may have to adjust the timer according to the seasons or turn if off during the winter period.

Observe how your lawn is responding to the sprinkler system. If any part of your lawn start to dry out and die, there may be a clog in the sprinkler head in that area. If there is too much water in one part of your lawn, there may be a leakage in the sprinkler system.

You should also check the valve box to ensure it is not full of water. If it is, one of the valves is probably leaking and you need to fix it as soon as possible. This may be due to a broken gasket or worn washer.

It is not cheap to install a permanent, in-ground sprinkler system but consider the amount of time it can save you, this is one option that you should seriously take into consideration.

Install A Permanent, In-Ground Sprinkler System To Save Time And Water

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The Secrets of Master Hydroponic Growers

!±8± The Secrets of Master Hydroponic Growers

Starting and running a hydroponics garden may seem a daunting task but is actually a walk in the park. All you need is learn the basics and spend ample time fine-tuning your system. Once you have learned the fundamental concepts, set up your hydroponics garden, and have well adjusted all elements and factors, then everything should be running smoothly.

The secret to hydroponics gardening is that "the food is in the water." Designing and setting up your system will focus and depend on this and the types of plants you intend to grow.

So read on to find out more about this secret.

Nutrients: The Perfect Mixture

Foods Your Plant Cannot Live Without

All plants require foods in the form of macronutrients and micronutrients to properly grow and bear the ideal yield. The same is true with hydroponics gardening. The first group is composed primarily of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium and secondarily of calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Some of the micronutrients needed by plants are boron, manganese, copper, zinc, chloride, iron, and molybdenum. In growing your favorite plant, it is a must that you use the perfect mixtures of nutrients that vary according to the particular growth stages they are in or else your investment in them will go down the drain.

These are the foods that your favorite plant needs in order to survive, yield the fruits you want in terms of quantity and quality, and grow healthy enough to reproduce:

Nitrogen: Plants need it in order to produce the proteins and enzymes that are used in photosynthesis and to enable the metabolism processes that are involved in it too. The healthy and right dosage of this nutrient will assure your fruit's quality of leaves and rapid seed production. Phosphorous: It is primarily involved in the creation of oils and starches in plants. It aids in the transformation of energy from the sun into the much-needed chemical energy thus allowing your plant greater stress tolerance and proper maturation. Potassium: It aids in protein building and ensures that plants have greater endurance against diseases. Calcium: It makes the cell walls of plants stronger and provides greater strength to them. Magnesium: It is essential to photosynthesis because it is a major part of chlorophyll. Sulfur: This nutrient enhances the growth of plants and their resistance to cold weather. Boron: It is an essential element in the production of seeds and fruits of plants. Copper: It is an important ingredient in the reproduction processes of plants. Zinc: This regulates plant growth. It produces auxin, which is and essential growth hormone. Zinc is also essential in the plant's root development and starch formation. Iron: An ingredient in chlorophyll creation. Iron deficiency in plants can be minimized by choosing appropriate soil for the plant's growing conditions. Molybdenum: It assists in nitrogen uses. This important nutrient is important in pollen formation. Manganese: Assists in the breakdown of nitrogen and carbohydrates. Magic Mixture Ratios Your Favorite Plants Would Love

Just like children, your favorite plants in your hydroponic garden need the right diet so that they will grow productive and healthy. Too much and too less of any of the nutrients will cause you problems that will cause you mental anguish and financial setbacks. You should take into consideration their growth stages before feeding them any mixture, which are the following:

Vegetative stage refers to that brief period of time where the plant begins photosynthesis. This also refers to the growth period where it develops its height, the thickness of the stems, would-be bud sites, and side branching. Flowering or fruiting stage, which you will find very fulfilling, is the period when your plants will show their sex and bear flowers. The 2:1:1 NPK Ratio

During the vegetative or growing stage in your hydroponic gardening, your plants should be fed a ratio of 2:1:1 nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K). Here are some tips pertaining to the appropriate ratios that can be used during vegetative stage:

A ratio of 20:10:10. This would mean that 20% of the mixture should be composed of nitrogen, 10% should be phosphorous, 10% should be potassium, and the remaining 60% should be composed of secondary macronutrients and micronutrients. A ratio of 30:15:15. This would require 30% of the mixture to be nitrogen, 15% phosphorous, and 15% potassium. The remaining 20% will be consisted of the secondary macronutrients and micronutrients. These mix ratios will give your plants greater resources during photosynthesis and result to better quality of leaves and seeds.

The Flowering Mix

When your favorite plants begin to flower, adjust the ratio to 1:2:2 nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. There should be more phosphorous and potassium than nitrogen in the mix. If you use the 20:10:10 ratio during the growth stage, make use of 10:20:20 ratio during the flowering stage. And if you use the 30:15:15 ratio in the vegetative period, you must use the 15:30:30 ratio during the flowering period. With these ratios, your plants will become stronger and bear greater stress tolerance. Furthermore, it is even suggested that during the flowering stage in your hydroponic gardening project, you can stop feeding your plants with nitrogen and focus on phosphorous, potassium, magnesium, and sulfur. Overfeeding just like in the case of humans could kill.

10 Friendly Tips on Formulation and Feeding

There are two ways to procure the magic mixture and the right ratios. You either purchase pre-formulated nutrients or you formulate them on their own. In the first option, all you have to do is combine a standard quantity prescribed by the manufacturers of the concentrate with water. The second option though is the more cost-efficient and effective because your mixes will be based on what your plants would need. Whichever you choose, there are considerations that you must not forget such as the pH level or acid content of the formula because the ability of the roots to absorb the nutrients will depend on it. Here are some friendly tips you can peruse and consider:

Maintain your formulas' pH level at the best range for your favorite plants, which is 5.8 to 6.5. A level of pH at 1 is acidic, at 7 neutral, and 14 basic. You can measure the pH level by using a chemical test kit that needs replenishment because the materials are consumed or through electronic methods such as pens with LCD monitors that are dipped into the solution. Adjust the ph level if necessary. This can be done by using distilled vinegar. A perfect mixture or balance among phosphoric, nitric, and sulfuric acids is important especially that they maximize the potential benefits that your plants could derive from nutrients such as phosphorous, nitrogen, and sulfur. In order to increase the pH base you can use potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxides. You can use soda as an adjusting agent too. Use alternative hydroponic systems in feeding the nutrients to the plants aside from those that are already in practice. Those systems that are most commonly used are aeroponics, continuous flow solution culture, static solution culture, flood and drain sub-irrigation, passive sub-irrigation, top irrigation, ultrasonic irrigation, and deep-water culture. Alternative feeding systems include the use of coconut fibers that are pre-treated. They have lesser potassium and sodium contents and are very rich with magnesium and calcium, which are both very useful in increasing or improving the growth of your plants. Replace the nutrient solution at an interval of two weeks. Remove the old solution from the reservoir and clean the equipment with hot water to kill any unfriendly bacteria that could have been accumulated. Recycle the old solution. Instead of throwing it away, use it to water the plants. Maintain the level of the water reservoir. Be sure to check on it on a daily basis because water evaporates faster during hot days. Do not overdo the feeding. Too much nutrient could lead to the death of your dear plants and would mean great losses on your part. Dissolve the powdered solution before you place it in the water in the reservoir. If you are using concentrated liquids, better mix them before directly placing them into the water too. Stop nutrient feeding your plants at least seven days prior to their harvest. Continue the water feeding though. Oxygenate your water. You can age tap water for three days by placing it in a container. Ventilation: Managing Heat

Due to the susceptibility of plants to weather changes, it is important that you manage heat well in your hydroponic garden. Some countries have only two seasons: wet and dry; and one of them is Australia. The dry seasons would usually last for six months where temperature is lower. During the wet seasons, which usually takes a period of six months too, there is too much rain and the temperature is high due to increased humidity in the air. For hydroponic growers like you, these weather changes could pose a lot of challenges because with the use of artificial lighting, natural temperature is heightened by the heat exuded by the artificial illumination. The more wattage you use, the greater heat is generated. Too much heat can kill your favorite plants even before they enjoy growth or flowering.

What You Can Do

There are several things that can be done to manage heat--to increase or decrease it. You must learn how to handle heat because they could either be too low or too high. If it is too low, your plants will die with cold; and with it too low their leaves will coil in and eventually die. These are some simple things you can do:

Use air-conditioners or vent systems to regulate airflow and thus the temperature of your hydroponics space. If air conditioners are too expensive for you in terms of electricity usage, then create a vent system. The most common vent systems are those that make hot air flow from the ceiling of your planting area to another room. Other vent systems are installed to exhaust the air through the chimney, walls, or even roofs. You can use simple equipment such as bathroom fans to serve as exhaust. Monitor the humidity and temperature of your hydroponic growth area through a thermometer. Create a system that can clear up the heat in five minutes and in cycles of twenty-five minutes when the artificial lightings are turned on. You need a timer and fan for this type of system. Set up a system that is based on thermostat. It will automatically turn a fan or air-conditioner on when a specific temperature or heat level is reached and will turn off the cooling equipment when the level decrease by at least 4 degrees Celsius. For internal air movement purposes, oscillating fans will do. It will aid carbon dioxide circulation and at the same time will keep down the mounting humidity inside the garden. This is necessary to be done in order to reduce incidence of plant ailments due to fungus and absorb the moisture in the room. To avoid declines in temperature, which usually takes place at night or when your artificial lighting is off, you should install a propane heater that is set to coordinate with a thermostat or timer. If you decide to use a thermostat, set it to detect a temperature fall below 20 degrees Celsius and to turn on the heater and to turn it off once the heat level is at 30 degrees Celsius. Furthermore, this system will provide your plants greater resources of carbon dioxide, which is an essential element in photosynthesis. Installation of a thermo-hygrometer. You can switch it on for a period of twenty-four hours or longer. It will provide you accurate monitoring of the levels of humidity and temperature. Lighting: Fluorescent and HPS

Light is needed by your favorite plant even in your hydroponic garden for photosynthesis and as indicators of weathers and seasons. With hydroponics lighting systems, you could control the time and duration of the exposure of the plants to light for purposes of standardizing the photosynthesis cycles. With them you could also simulate the seasons in order to encourage them to flower and extend the growing season so that you would enjoy year-round supply of your favorite plants and fruits. Imagine that even in seasons of winters, your plants would still continue to grow and prosper. If humans are provided calories by fats, plants get them from light. With artificial lighting, your favored plant could grow as high as six feet tall in three or four months.

Great Artificial Lighting Systems

Your favored hydroponic plant will surely bloom to its fullest potential and give you the best quality and quantity possible through the following artificial lighting systems:

Fluorescent and LED (or light emitting diodes) are best used during the stage where the seedlings of your plants are starting to grow. Metal halide (or MH) and high pressure sodium (HPS) systems would be best for the flowering stage. Fluorescent Bulbs Explained More

Fluorescent bulbs are ideal for seedlings, and because of their low intensity they need to be placed nearer the plants. They should be hanged at least eight to fifteen inches from the plants. They have the following benefits:

Enhancement of the health and strength of seedlings or cuttings Superior root growth and quality Maximize the plant response in terms of photosynthesis Unveiling Metal Halide Bulbs

They provide your hydroponic garden abundant blue and green spectrum light, which is essential in the growth of the plants. With them, you can be assured that your plant's leaf growth would be maximized and they will grow sturdy or compact. Compared to fluorescent and incandescent bulbs, they are best for the flowering stage because their brightness is 125 lumens, which is quite enormous compared to the 18 lumens of incandescent and 39 lumens of fluorescent bulbs. They are both efficient and effective during the vegetative and flowering stages.

HPS Bulbs at Their Best

High pressure sodium bulbs are considered as best for the enhancement of the budding and flowering processes of your favored plants because they emit light of the red and yellow spectrum. In other words, they are bulbs emitting light that closely imitates natural light. Most users prefer them during the flowering stage of their hydroponic garden.

Basic Lighting Tips You Must Practice

Whatever your preferred system is for your hydroponic garden, you should not forget to do the following in order to maximize your plants' health, growth, and reproduction:

For two months, continuously expose the young plant or seedlings to light. When in vegetation stage, illuminate them at twenty-two hours in a day; and when they are flowering, keep them lighted at a maximum of twelve hours a day. Keep the light close to the plants, but never allow them to touch even the leaves. When the edges of their leaves curl, it means that they are overheated. During the vegetation stage, use bulbs that emit blue or red bands of the spectrum. Metal halide lamps provide the blue light; and fluorescent, the red light. Minimum light exposure is twenty watts per foot. You can go much higher but not too high or else your plants may fry and not too low because they might droop. Fix the lamps to the roof to afford you flexibility. As the plants grow taller, you can raise the bulbs higher. Use reflectors to ensure uniform illumination among all your plants. Those that do not get sufficient light as the others would grow disfigured, taller, and thinner. Plan and design a daily lighting cycle. If you will not do this, your plants will grow poorly. And if you wake them up when they already have been accustomed that it is the dark period of the day, they will be traumatized and could become ill. Paint your walls, roofs, and even floors with white to provide greater light reflection capacity of your space. Brighten the days of your favorites and make them feel loved and cared for. Clones: Increasing the Success Rate of Your Hydroponic Gardening

Cloning is simply taking a cutting from your growing plant and placing it together with other cuttings in a separate pot or container. Be sure that the clone you choose comes from female plants. When properly taken cared of, they will become mature plants that are exact copies of the original or source plants. It is a method that would surely aid you in controlling the quality of your plants, seeds, and their fruits. The clones grow faster than those that are raised from seeds, and this will make your time usage more efficient.

Useful Tips to Improve Your Success Rates

Clones are very effective tools in reproducing your plants in your hydroponic project. You must take extra care though to ensure the success or else you will just be wasting time, energy, and money on them. These are useful tips that could help you:

Only clone plants that are healthy, well developed, and have enhanced flowering capabilities. Take more cuttings than you need to plant so that you will have a wider range of choices. Choose among them the best. Before taking a cutting, remove the nitrogen from the source plant by feeding it heavily with water that is pH adjusted and without any fertilizer or nutrient for at least two and maximum of three days. If you fail to do this, you will impede the growth of the roots of the clones. Choose well the media that you will use for your clones. You can make use of cubes that are pre-formed and contain holes fit for the cuttings. You should cut holes in the top of the medium that would be of the same size or circumference as the stems of your clones. Take extra care when you cut. Do not forget to sterilize your cutting equipment before you proceed with the cloning process because you might infect the mother plant. Be sure that when you cut, you do it quickly in order to keep air from being shot into the stem. The clone should be between three and six inches long--no more and no less. There should at least be one leaf inter-node and if possible, two inter-nodes. Place the cuttings in a misting dome where they will be artificially moisturized two to three times in a day. Keep them well ventilated too by cutting small holes on the top of the dome. Maintain their temperature at 72 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Use double tube fluorescents that emit white light--both cold and warm. Keep them close to the clones at a distance of one or two inches. In case you use an artificial lighting system that utilizes metal halide bulbs or high pressure sodium lamps, keep the cuttings at a distance of two or three feet if the light source is between 175 and 400 watts. If the bulbs' wattage is at least a thousand, keep them at a distance of at least four feet. Keep the cuttings illuminated at least eighteen hours a day. Water the clones every two days with distilled water with nutrients. If the external temperature is high, you can water them once a day. Do not make the mistake of submerging or setting them in water because the stems will become rotten or decayed. In about a week, check on the clones. If you see that they have started to root, stop the misting or artificial moisturizing procedures. If they have properly rooted already, remove them from the dome and plant them. Harvest: Curing the Correct Way

The Right Time to Harvest Your Hydroponic Garden

If you have reached as far as this, it only means one thing: you have been successful with your plants' growth and flowering stages. You have won over the challenges of hydroponic gardening and triumphantly circumvented the adversities of raising your beloved fruits. The average harvest time is after eight to twelve weeks of flowering. You must remember that they are best harvested when trichomes production or THC level is at a maximum. An indicator of this is when at least a third of their pistils or hairs have turned from white to dark such as brownish or reddish in color. Use a magnifying glass to monitor the pistils. Do not over-wait though until all of the pistils are dark because it will decrease the value of your plants.

Potency and quantity are two non-parallel objectives in harvesting. If the former is your goal, you should harvest when the THC level production is at its maximum and your harvested plants will weigh lesser but their quality would be a lot better. If the latter is your target, then harvest them after all the pistils are dark.

Drying to Improve Quality

After harvest, you have to separate the leaves from the buds. The next step would be to dry and cure them. You must not forget that your leaves and buds leave a bad taste in the mouth and have harsh aroma if they are used or consumed right after harvest. They must be dried to take out or evaporate the water from them. The curing step will complete the drying process and completely transform the leaves of your plants to bearers of good dreams and magic. Here are some things you must do when drying your plants:

Hang them in an environment that is dry, dark, and cool. Keep the temperature at 20 degrees Celsius or 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Too much heat and light will destroy their quality. Do not directly handle the plants. Avoid damaging the quality of the heads, buds, and leaves by contaminating them with dirt or the sweat of your hands. Separate the large branches and wider leaves in order for you to give better drying exposure to the smaller branches and narrower leaves. Keep the drying branches at a distance of half a foot. When they are too close to each other, your plants might attract mold; and when they are too far from each other, they will be dried faster than what is necessary. Both situations will lead to the loss of potency and decrease in quality. The average drying period is between a week and three weeks. To check if your plants have properly dried up already, take some branches and bend them. If they would snap at an angle of 90 degrees or less, it means that your plants are well dried already. If they will not, then you have to let them dry some more. The Magic of Curing

Curing is an important procedure in your hydroponic gardening project as they are responsible for transforming your plants into marketable products with quality that is of high commercial values. Just be sure that before you do any of the steps related to curing, you have properly dried them. Observe the following tricks and for sure, you would enjoy the triumph that you have longed for:

Place in air-tight containers your plants. Store the containers in a room where the temperature is stabilized at 20 degrees Celsius. Be sure that no light will permeate the room because it will damage the product. Any remaining moisture in the contents of the sealed containers will definitely evaporate and cling to the internal surface of the containers. Slowly open the lids and let the extra moisture escape. Do this during the first week at an interval of twenty-four hours for about a period of thirty minutes. During the second week, repeat the process at an interval of forty-eight hours. Repeat this in the third week and other succeeding weeks if necessary until all condensation is removed. Watch out for possible decay caused by too much moist. Signs of decay include a smell that is the same to that of compost and new grass clippings. Keep the dried plants that are not so green anymore stored in air-tight containers that should be placed in a place with a temperature of twenty degrees Celsius. Keeping them in a fridge would help a lot in avoiding exposure to contamination, heat, and light that could cause deterioration of quality and shortening of shelf life. Keep them untouched for several weeks or months. Prevention and Eradication

The prevention and eradication of bugs have been one of the most important concerns among hydroponic planters and scientists in agriculture. With the advent of more scientific researches and methods in studying bugs, modern science have came up with innovative methods to counter the growth and prevent the existence of bugs. The most recent and effective so far is biological pest control. This method is simple and only requires that friendly bugs are introduced to the environment to counter the damage of harmful bugs.

The Predator Bugs You Must Destroy in Your Hydroponic Garden

At different stages, your plant could suffer from different kinds of bugs. You should be familiar with them so that you will know how to prevent and destroy them. During the growth of the seedling of your plants the following bugs could infest them and either kill or damage them:

Cutworms: Larvae of the turnip moths. They feed on the leaves, stems, and buds of young seedlings. Hemp flea beetles: They are very small jumping beetles that eat the leaves of seedlings. Crickets: They are harmful to humans but very deadly to plants because they feed on leaves and buds, especially those that are just at their early growth. When your plants grow taller and develop wider leaves and when they also start to flower, the following bugs would surely give you tons of headaches unless prevented:

Spider mites: They are very small and almost invisible to the human eyes. They reproduce at a very fast rate; and before you know it, they have destroyed your whole crop. The proof of their presence is usually the occurrence of dead spots on the leaves. When they have powerfully infested your plants, the leaves will turn yellow, almost the shade of bronze. Aphids: They are also called plant lice and are very common in temperate zones. They feed on the sap of plants and are most likely to damage the flowers even before they bloom. Whiteflies: They look like fruit flies but are more devious because they chew on the leaves and flowers of your dear plants. Leafhoppers: Taxonomy wise, they are like grasshoppers just pretty smaller. They thrive on green leaves. Other bugs that could infect the stems, stalks, and roots are the following:

European corn borers: They are generally found in corns, but they have also been observed to damage your favorite plants' stems. Hemp borers: Most of the time they infest fruits, but they also love the stalks of your green healthy produce. Weevils: They prefer dry plants or environment. They are dangerous destroyers of stalks and stems. Root maggots: They feed on the roots of plants. They damage the osmosis capability of the roots. Termites and ants: Self-organized insects that feed on the roots and are capable of adapting to whatever environment the plants are in. Fungus gnats: They are dark small flies with short lives but vicious effect on the roots they infest. The Best Solutions

There are many available solutions that would help you eradicate and prevent bug infestation of your favored plants. Five of these techniques are the following:

Biological pest control through the use of a beneficial or small animal that eats the bugs that damage your plants. They control adult pests and destroy their young, eggs, and larva. Some examples are predatory mites to counter greenhouse mites, nematodes for weevils, lace wing for aphids, and parasitic wasp for white flies. Bio-best spray that either come in concentrates or spray cans. All you have to do is spray it on the affected leaves. Sticky plates that serve as the alarm systems, and they draw bugs because of their yellow color. Plant protectors that emit odors that are bug repellants. Neem oil that damages the nervous systems of bugs. Sound Preventive Measures

Eradication could be very expensive, and prevention could cost you nothing at all. Here are some suggestions that you may consider to prevent bugs infestations in your growth room:

Always clean your tools before and after using them. Maintain proper drainage to ensure cleanliness of the area. Do not overwater because the unused water can become the haven of bugs. Quarantine infected plants to prevent others from being infested too. The Perpetual Harvest: Sea of Green Techniques

These techniques involve the harvesting of batches of small plants that mature early. They refer to that method in hydroponic gardening where smaller plants are grown over shorter periods of time instead of growing few big plants over a long period of time. With hydroponics where the environment is controlled from lighting to ventilation, it is possible to start one batch at an earlier time, and as they mature, another batch is started. This method results to a year-round growing and harvesting cycle. Another way of doing this is starting all the plants together and creating a green canopy where you let your plant be harvested more times than once. Taller plants will be harvested from the top first without uprooting them. As the plant grows some more, the earlier lower level becomes the top that is ready for harvest.

The Secrets of Master Hydroponic Growers

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Lawn irrigation inspection

!±8± Lawn irrigation inspection

Before purchasing a home with a sprinkler system or lawn irrigation, have a home inspector check the entire system. Many times there are broken pipes, damaged spray heads or limited coverage. A Wise Inspector Service Brandon, Mississippi.

Lawn irrigation inspection

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Growing Chrysanthemum For Fun and Profits

!±8± Growing Chrysanthemum For Fun and Profits

Chrysanthemum is one of the most popular cut flower by most florist and flower arrangers. They are identified through its flower classifications...

1) Single. This includes varieties which approximately has five rows or ray florets and a visible central disk still prominent. 2) Semi-double. This has two or several rows petals but with the central disk still prominent. 3) Double. This includes such categories as...

o In curves. Its heads are nearly globular in outline with no visible disk florets. The ray florets are curved upward toward the center of the flower. This is the most popular of the market-type large flower because of ease of handling since it's not easily bruised.

o Reflex. Its head is similar to the in curves in outline but the ray florets are curved downward toward the base of the flower.

o Pompon. It has either globular or flat head but they ray florets are short and firm.

o Decorative. It has he4ad with many flat ray florets and its outline is flat rather than globular.

o Novelty type. Flowers with tubular ray florets. Novelty has four types...

- Spider. Also called "Fuji Chrysanthemum", it has hidden disk florets with long arching ray florets hooked upward at the tip.

- Quill. Similar to spider type but the tip of the ray florets are not hooked.

- Spoon. The end of its tubular ray florets is spatulate and, unlike the spider and quill types, its central disk may be distinct.

- Anemone. This type has blooms that are either single or double with a pincushion-like center as the most prominent part. The ray florets play only a minor role.

Cut flower production is a lucrative business especially for some special occasions such as; weddings, birthdays, church decorative, show cases in big business establishments, malls, offices, residential, and many more.

You'll notice that there is a big demand for cut flowers every day, and the supply is very limited.

Even if you'll just look around, in your own home, for example, you always want that your fresh cut flowers in your dining table is fresh to look at, right?

For me, I see to it that my cut flowers in my office is always fresh everyday. I have to make it a point that my office is always looking fresh decorated with fresh flowers from my garden.

You know what?

And you'll agree with me - fresh flowers increase your productivity and motivates you to initiate your task in a lively mode.

When I'm not in the mode to work, I stir at the fresh flowers in my table look at it and concentrate. Once my eyes is focused on the flowers, my energy becomes active and as if there is someone pushing me to do the task with ease.

That's how powerful flowers I experienced in my whole life. So that I see to it that there is always an available cut flowers in my garden for my office supply. To have your continuous supply of cut flowers for home use or for market, I have identified some steps how to grow them easily.

7 Steps how to grow cut flowers...

1) Select the plant that fits your area. You've to look what type of flowers that fits in your location. There are some flowers that are soil specific. It's your wise decision therefore, to select the flowers that will give you good net return and complete satisfaction.

2) Construct your nursery. Nursery is very important when you'll engage in flower production. It's where you'll house your newly cut seedlings for security reasons from animals and other destructive elements.

3) Plant cut flowers that are in demand. You've to be selective in your choice for flowers you want to plant. Survey the market what flower type are in demand and concentrate on planting them.

4) Select a high ticket cut flowers. High ticket flowers would give an edge over low tickets, because, they're the ones that would save you from your production cost in producing them. Though you'll plant only few of them, the return on your investment is encouraging because of the high price they'll command.

5) Master the art of plant propagation techniques. Yes, this is the secret of some successful flower gardeners. Producing your own planting materials would minimize your expenses in hiring a plant propagator. Instead of hiring one for your flower garden, you can do it yourself - a big savings for you.

6) Provide a continuous water source. Water is the life blood of flowers. Starving them would result to your failure because flowers loves water. You should prioritize water supply before you'll start your flower garden venture.

7) Secure your cut flower garden. Security here, I mean is to put something to protect your flower garden from outside intruders. Securely put a fence around your garden to avoid stray animals and even human from entering inside.

If you have the means to construct a greenhouse, the better because your flowers are properly secured. But, I'm not saying, put one. If you've no capital to put up a greenhouse, use some local materials in your place just to secure your flower garden.

Environmental requirements to grow Chrysanthemum

Soil. Chrysanthemum grows best in a well-drained soil with high moisture holding capacity. It should have a pH between 5.8 to 6.8, but the ideal one should be 6.0 to 6.5. The percent organic matter content must be at least 4% or higher.

Climate. Chrysanthemum being an open plant grows well in areas with plenty of sunshine but should be cool during the night. They grow well and bear productive flowers in a cool place.

Too much rainfall is not favorable for chrysanthemum because the attack of some pests and diseases is prevalent during this period. But this can be remedied by providing protective structures to the growing plants. If you have the financial capability, constructing a greenhouse is the ideal solution to protect your flowers from serious damage.

Water. Adequate water supply is vital during the growing period of this plant. Don't ever attempt to plant your flower plant if you think there is no available source of water.

You'll be frustrated if you'll limit the supply of water to your chrysanthemum, because they love water during their growing period.

Light. Although chrysanthemum thrives best to sunlight, they are also tolerable in an artificial light bulbs. This is true when you grow them in greenhouse where sunlight is limited. You can supply artificial light during the months where sunlight is critical. Under Philippines condition, it's from July to March where light is critical.

The best site location for Chrysanthemum

You have to consider a good location especially if you're for commercial production. The following 7 considerations should be your best choice for site location...

1) Accessibility to good road. Good road is an important area of concern if you're into commercial production. Naturally, customers wants a good road network to have an easy access to your garden.

2) Relatively flat or slightly rolling land with adequate windbreak. Your area should be a little bit flat but slightly rolling and of course with a reasonable windbreak to protect the plants from strong wind during storm or typhoon.

3) Chemical-free location. Your site should be far from possible sources of harmful chemicals like factories, refineries, and other hazardous objects.

4) Source of organic manures. As much as possible locate your garden near the source of organic materials, such as poultry farms, piggery, barns, etc.

5) Source of electric power. As mentioned earlier, chrysanthemum is a sun-loving plant. In the absence of sunlight, artificial light can be supplemented. It's therefore important to locate your garden near the source of electric power for emergency purposes.

6) Proximity to market. Near to the market place is an advantage in your part because you'll minimize handling cost in transporting your flowers.

7) In demand in the market. Survey the market and observe what cut flowers are in demand. Knowing the demand in the market, will give you an idea and in turn minimize your losses in the production cost because you know before hand which flowers will give you the best return on your investment.

Your site initial preparation

Before you start your actual cut flower operations, you should provide the following infrastructures...

1) Rooting plots or beds. You should construct your rooting beds about 50 square meters for every hectare of effective land area to be planted.

2) Nursery. Your nursery is the place where you'll stock your plants prior to market. It's also the place where you'll groom and do some finishing touches before delivering them to the market or garden shows.

3) Electrical and misting fixtures. Electrical fixtures are connected to the misting fixtures for automatic water mist supply to the plants. Irrigation system requires for the supply of water to the stock nursery. This may includes the installation of water tanks, light timer and other facilities needed.

4) Packing area. The packing area is your place for the preparation of the plants for marketing. This is also your rest area for farm workers and utilities.

5) Storage room. Your storage room serves as the place for storing your farm implements, chemicals, and other farm supplies.

6) Farm block. If you've enough space in your garden, you should have your area blocked into quarters. One quarter of the area is always in bloom and the rest are in various stages of operation, one quarter being transplanted or at seedling stage and the other quarter near flowering.

This way you've a continuous supply of flower the whole year round.

How to prepare the land

After the major farm operations was performed, such as clearing, leveling, terracing, plowing and harrowing, the construction of raised beds follows. You should construct raised beds with a size of.5 to 1 meter wide with a lengths from 25 to 50 meters.

After bedding, you've to spread organic manures like chicken,hog, horse, or bat manure, whatever is available in your country. These manures should be spread over the bed at a depth of about 2 - 4" then incorporate into the soil 1 - 1.5 months before transplanting. This will depend on how fresh your manures will be.

If you can get an aged manures, it's much better because the decomposition process is much faster, and can be utilized by the plants earlier.

Together with the manures, you've to apply basal phosphate fertilizer which usually consists of a single super phosphate (20 P2O5) at the rate of 0.1 -0.2 kg/sq. m. and liming material to adjust the soil pH and to ensure that calcium level in the soil is adequate.

How to propagate chrysanthemum

Most often chrysanthemum is propagated by stem tip cutting if you're into commercial production. For home gardens or small cut flower ventures, you can use suckers, stem cuttings and seeds. Usually, you can obtain your cuttings from your stock/mother plant which you should perpetually keep in vegetative state by providing supplementary lighting.

No more than 5 - 6 flushes of stem tip cuttings should be obtained after which the stock plants are replanted with a new one.

Here's what you'll do...

1) Construct a rooting beds using sand or volcanic cinder as support rooting medium, about 1 foot thickness.
2) Cut the stem tip at least 2 - 3" long or irrespective of length, there must by at least 2 to 3 fully developed leaves.
3) Soak cuttings in a root hormone to hasten root development.
4) Set cuttings in misted rooting beds distanced at 1 inch apart.
5) Rooting beds should be misted to ensure high growth survival of the cuttings.
6) Cuttings treated with rooting hormone are ready for transplanting in about 10 - 14 days.
7) You can plant the rooted cuttings when the roots reached a length of.5 - 1".
8) If the cuttings are ready for planting but the area is not yet prepared, you can dry-packed and store them in cold-storage at 0°C for 3 weeks, longer if unrooted.

How to transplant chrysanthemum

In your prepared raised beds, transplant the rooted cuttings at a density of 16 - 24 plants per square meter depending on the variety and the quality of the flowers you desired. If you're aiming for better quality flower and more vigorous varieties, you can set them at a lower plant densities.

Once cuttings have produced roots, they become responsive to photoperiod, so your rooting beds should be lighted.

Light should also be installed in the flower production area even before transplanting.

During the first 3 - 5 days from transplanting, you should maintain mist to avoid wilting. Or you can use an overhead sprinkler irrigation. But you've to discontinue this as soon as the plants are already established to minimize leaf diseases.

Maintain your plants' sanitation by removing some weeds up to flowering stage. Remember! Weeds are the number one competitors for plant nutrients. Always keep the soil moist at all times but not too much water accumulation.

How to initiate fertilize application

Although your plots have been applied basally with phosphate fertilizer, you should apply supplementary fertilizer after the 4th week from transplanting. Dissolve the fertilizer in water at the rate of ½ lb per one gallon of water.

On a square meter area, the transplants requires at least.04 -.05 kg/sq. meter of nitrogen and potassium. This amount may be applied in three equal installments or weekly as follows...

1) Prior to pinching (about 2 weeks after transplanting).

2) Prior to start of short day or lights off.

3) Shortly after appearance of petal color.

Weekly application of fertilizer should start about a week from transplanting.

How to pinch, prune, and disbud

Pinching is the removal of the terminal shoot to force the break out of the auxiliary buds.

Consequently, several lateral stems are produced per plant. To have a quality flowers, it's not advisable to allow these lateral stems to grow.

The ideal number should be 3 - 4 lateral stems per plant. In this numbers, you'll be having some quality flowers - a case where you'll flowers commands good price.

In reducing the number of stems, you should select those vigorous laterals that are distanced from each other preferably those at a more basal location.

By pruning the unnecessary laterals, you're minimizing over-crowding and competition among laterals which will ultimately affect the quality of the flowers.

The more the number of laterals, the greater the competition for the food manufactured by the leaves.

You should pinch the plants about two weeks from transplanting. You should pinch about.5 - 1 inch the terminal either by a pruning shear or simply by pinching between your finger nails.

The use of the finger nails is preferred to minimize the transfer of diseases through the infected cutting instrument.

However, you should wash your hands properly with ethyl alcohol or, if available with fresh milk before doing the operation to make sure your hands are clean.

Your dis-budding operations should start as soon as the terminal flower buds appear and have reached a bigger size and is easy to handle.

Usually, there are about 4 - 5 number of buds that appears at the terminal. The standard recommendation is, only one bud is allowed to mature. The rest should be removed by dis- budding.

The ideal size of the buds to be removed should be about the size of a mongo seed. If dis-budding is made earlier than the prescribed time, the remaining bud might be injured, and will affect the flower quality. On the other hand, if you'll dis-bud when the buds too big, the possibility of big scar left is too big and unsightly thus affecting flower quality.

Large wounds scars also take longer to heal and they may also serve as entry point for disease microorganisms.

For spray mums, dis-budding is usually not necessary. However, the removal of the central terminal crown bud usually ensures a more uniform development of the remaining lower buds.

Take note, that long straight stems are among the desirable features of a quality flower of chrysanthemum.

Therefore, you should provide support for the growing plant. You can use any support, say a nylon cords or anything available.

The first layer should be placed when the plants are about 1 foot high and the next layer are about 2 feet high or the first layer may be raised to about 1.5 feet, when the plants are about 2 feet high.

How to control pests and diseases

The most common insect pests of chrysanthemum are...

1) nematodes
2) leaf roller
3) mites
4) thrips
5) aphids.

They're not serious types of pests. In fact, they can be controlled easily by Companion cropping with other aromatic herbs and other biological control methods. If the infestation is beyond control, you can use chemical insecticides as the last recourse, but you've to follow the manufacturer's recommendation to totally eradicate them.

But, my position is still on natural control methods. If you can avoid it, don't ever use any chemical to control pests and diseases. On the other hand, some of the common diseases of chrysanthemum are the following...

1) Cercospora leaf spot
2) Fusarium stem rot
3) Powdery mildew
4) An unidentified bacteria

These diseases can be easily controlled by the use of the following fungicides, following the recommendation from the manufacturers...

1) Difolatan
2) Daconil
3) Dithane
4) M45
5) Maneb
6) Delsene MX

As I have said before, and this will be my position, by all means...

If you can avoid it, don't ever use any chemical to control pests and diseases. There are so many natural control methods you can apply. Just look around you, can find them.

How to harvest a quality flowers

Chrysanthemum flowers are the ones that are sold to the market. It's therefore vital that proper harvesting should be done with care to get an attractive and good looking flower appearance.

Here are some recommendations that you should follow...

1) The flowers should be nearly fully opened when harvested.

2) The spray type, should be cut when the central flower is open and the surrounding flowers are well developed.

3) For varieties that shed pollen badly, should be cut before they become unsightly.

4) The standards should be cut before the center florets are fully developed.

5) The stems should be reasonably soft where the cut is made since very hard woody tissues may not absorb water. However, the entry of water into the hard woody stem can be facilitated by slightly crushing the tip end.

6) The lower 1/3 portion of the foliage on the stem should be stripped off to prevent the leaves from fouling the water or holding the solution.

7) For standards that are to be opened artificially, the flowers should be cut in the bud stage (about the size of a quarter coin).

How to do post-harvest handling of chrysanthemum flowers

In order to extend the life span of your flowers, the following steps should be strictly followed...

1) Shortly after harvest, they should be held in water at 5°C.

2) Post harvest life may be extended by dry storage at 0 - 1°C for 3 weeks.

3) When the flowers are to be stored, they should, however, be conditioned by recutting the stem end, then soak their stems in warm water (about 37 - 42°C) to facilitate rapid dehydration.

4) An opening solution which may be used consists of 5 - 10% sucrose + 200 ppm 8-hydroxyquinoline citrate or sulfate (200 ppm Physan 20 or Likosan which may be a substitute for 8-hydroxyquinoline). The flowers opened in 7 - 9 days and the maximum flower diameter for Albatros at full opening is 12.5 cm.

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3rd Degree Burns and Deep 2nd Degree Burns need to be covered almost immediately, and the options at present are:

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Disadvantages: Are rejected within 7 to 14 days. Cultured Skin Sheets take about 30 days to be made from a skin biopsy from the patient, so some other temporary covering would need to be applied.

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Many people have a tendency to fall with sinus infections during or after air travel. The four steps in this article can help, sinus pressure relief for those who travel by air at regular intervals.

There are a number of reasons why people who are prone to infections of the sinuses, they tend to contact with air travel. Release of stale air in the vicinity of others is certainly a reason, and this air often contains more bacteria and viruses that the airin our normal life. The low humidity in airplane cabins is another factor. The dry air that we breathe in the air tends to impair the normal mucosa of an eye, and people more susceptible to bacteria and viruses. Because aircraft cabins are pressurized and the pressure change during ascent and descent, can have harmful effects.

Four major proposals of the breast in relation to air travel can be obtained: drink plenty of water before andduring long flights, with a saline solution during the flight, do the Valsalva maneuver and modified with a decongestant before air travel.

Drink plenty of water

The air intake, which occurs at very high altitudes for the cabin air has very dry air. Drinking water can help before and during flights, which take body moisture and keep the system wet nose as possible. In addition, alcohol and caffeine are often consumed by people on long flights, and thisalso tend to dehydrate people. Make sure you drink water regularly on a long flight may help prevent dryness of the nose.

Use a saline solution often during the flight

Please bring a small bottle of saline solution and use it every hour or so to help the wet nose. Compared with saline counter contain all the preservatives, and some people are bothered by this. And 'possible to mix their own solution without preservatives and to avoid this problem.A half teaspoon of salt added to 8 ounces of water is a good mix. I personally use a product called Breathe-ease ® XL for nasal irrigation is to produce a spray bottle with no preservatives, and that will be a good use for about a week. This salt spray pressure to provide the breast, bathed in the nasal mucosa and maintain proper drainage.

Use the Modified Valsalva maneuver

Dr. M. Lee Williams describes the maneuvers in his book "SinusitisHelp book. "This brackets the nose between your thumb and forefinger, swallows, and then immediately blow into the nose without letting go. Do not say you should blow strong nose, a slight push is enough. Dr. Williams, that this should longer times per minute during the ascent and descent, mainly cabin pressure in these times of change can be made. It should also be performed several times per hour, while the aircraft at high altitude. It 'important to rememberSchwalbe shortly before blowing gently in the nose.

Consider a decongestant before the flight

I fight to use any spray Flonase every night as part of my normal regime, problems with sinuses. I would also like to use one or two hours before each flight. On long flights to Europe, are also 5 mg of prednisone. I think that keeps my nose clear and works well, even if flights are long-Americans in Europe. Prednisone should be used sparingly, butas this may damage the immune system, so this should be taken only after consulting your doctor.

Realizing that the air in aircraft cabins is stale, dry and often dirty, can sinus pressure relief by drinking plenty of water before and during flights, with a salt spray, do the Valsalva maneuver as amended, as described above, and received under a decongestant before take-off, especially on long trips. You should also try to avoid air travel if you simply have a coldand humidity before a trip.

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Do you hear? 16 things that are unexpected, even the smell - and the refresh rate you know you're a little 'sharper when spinning a difficult class or dinner garlic. But it turns out that some less predictable factors, such as speed pulls you in the morning to you, the amount of carbohydrates you eat, or snoring - may also influence the BO, breath, flatulence and much more. Here is how to fix it, fast.

1 NOT towel after a shower
A quick rubdown post Showereventually causes a problem later. This is because moisture can get trapped between the folds of the skin, such as under the breasts, under your love handles or even between your toes, Marina Peredo, MD, a board certified dermatologist says that in a study Private in Smithtown, New York. "There is no access to air there, and it is easier for bacteria and fungi proliferate and mix with the sweat, odor and irritation," he says. Solve the problem: Peredo recommends this trick to their patients: "When you put out to drya hair dryer to cool down and moves it through the abdomen, groin, feet, sweat everywhere there, where to find uncomfortable. "You can also sprinkle with a powder absorbent anti-fungal properties to the skin or in your shoes. Zeabsorb Try-AF, pharmacies available.

LOVE YOU 2 Chicken Tikka
Foods with spicy ingredients such as curry, garlic and other spices can not, just to bad breath, but also a bit 'of body odor. During digestion, it produces more food smelly sulfur-containing gases. MoreThese products are metabolized in the gut and liver, but some, such as allyl methyl sulfide, in blood flow, recorded and released through the lungs and pores, an effect that can last for a couple of hours or more, says Debra Jaliman, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine. Solve the problem: you can temporarily mask bad breath with mouthwash or chew some fresh parsley, mint or fennel seeds, but we must wait until the body is ready, All to digest before the odor is completely gone. Join a spicy meal in good company, it is difficult to smell it on others when you eat the same thing, says Richard Price, DMD, spokesperson for the American Dental Association. Avoid garlic-rich chow in the hours before an important meeting or date.

3 MA-you brush your teeth only
Abandonment of the tongue, and breathing may not be as fresh as you want. The language is called with thousands of tiny hair extensions coveredPapillae, and can accommodate small scraps of food trap. So even if you can brush and floss regularly hang behind the remains of small meals, collecting bacteria and hydrogen sulphide gas, also known as halitosis. Solve the problem: mouthwash can help, but the best way to kill bacteria, remove dead cells and food debris from the crevices of the tongue with a tongue scraper inexpensive. Gently brush the tongue with a soft toothbrush works well. Cautious in cleaning awaypossible without gagging. In addition, a toothpaste, chlorine dioxide or tea tree oil, a strong disinfectant with a pleasant smell of eucalyptus contains switches.

4 You are in severe stress
When an urgent project falls on the desk, sweating a part of how the body handles the pressure in a natural way. Our bodies are smart. The famous fight or flight response mechanism-yes, the same that our ancestors pass saber-toothed tiger sweating is increased, so that we can not overheatwhile we are fighting. Fast forward a few thousand years, and hectic days at work can lead to the same sticky, sweaty hands and armpits. Solve the problem: Try sage tea. It contains astringent tannins and a variety of antimicrobial compounds that act to calm the sympathetic nervous system, which is what triggers all these symptoms of stress. Sage, the total cost of the sweating, drinking though often in small amounts throughout the day. To do so, 1 to 2 teaspoons of steepCoarsely powdered dried sage leaves in boiling water and leave uncovered 10 minutes to ensure all the ingredients have been released

5 YOU Upped fiber intake
Fiber-packaged foods are good for your health, but may give the feeling of a little 'flatulence. Unfortunately, the reason why some high-fiber foods such as fruits, vegetables, whole grains and beans to make you feel full longer the same reason that they cause gas, according to the Mayo Clinic. This type of fiber,called soluble fiber is not digested until it (to get other foods digested in the small intestine is usually earlier in the digestive system) has reached the colon. This healthy bacteria in the gut to break the fiber, which produces hydrogen, carbon dioxide, methane and even. After all these smelly gases go somewhere and often leave them in the form of flatulence. Solve the problem: Add these foods to your diet for a couple of weeks so they can be adapted to your body. When you add a fiberbe sure to take at least 8 ounces of water and drink plenty of fluids during the day of the fibers is not easily pass through the digestive system without it.

6 The Russian like a maniac
Blaming the night sounds of cover-your-mouth morning breath. Sleeping with your mouth open your mouth dry, dead cells and then collect on the tongue to dissolve the gum and cheek. This is what causes morning breath. Solve the problem: Skip the nightcap. Alcohol before bedtime maySnoring worse. Snoring putting an adhesive strip on the bridge of the nose can help improve breathing. In the morning, in addition to brushing and flossing and tongue, gargle with a small glass of lemon juice acid to kill bacteria that cause bad odors. Then just eat unsweetened yogurt, which contains the bacteria Lactobacillus healthy, a probiotic, compete with and replace the smelly bacteria in your mouth. The lemon-yogurt combo immediately neutralizes the odor and lasts 12-24Hours, said Mark Moyad, MD, MPH, director of prevention and alternative medicine at the University of Michigan Medical Center.

7 TO EAT ON THE RUN
If the wolf in a few minutes at lunch because of work deadlines, you can have an afternoon burpy forward. Chewing too fast and drinking through a straw can make you swallow too much air. Take advantage of this air-dioxide, nitrogen, oxygen and carbon, by regurgitation from the stomach. What is left makes its waythrough the digestive tract until it is finally expelled through the other end, like a gas. Solve the problem: one hour lunch break is unheard of these days, but give yourself enough time to chew properly, without a huge bite. Put your fork while you slow down, if necessary, Munch. Also, do not eat, if frightened, upset, or stressed, can interfere with digestion. In the hectic days when you know you'll eat quickly, you take two capsules of peppermint oil enteric (500 mg) three timesrecommended daily Ronald Hoffman, MD, author of alternative remedies that really work (Rodale, 2007). Peppermint oil kills the bacteria that cause bloating and stomach muscles relaxed for easier digestion.

It uses only 8 DEODORANT
Be sure to include antiperspirant white members. Deodorants only temporarily mask the BO-not to prevent your body from releasing the sweat, Peredo said. "Antiperspirants really gets the sweat, the sweat does not excrete more," saidHe says. Solve the problem: You really only need an antiperspirant, but if you want to smell the sea breeze, or at least choose a product that has both deodorants and antiperspirants. If you have a big sweater in time (especially in the sticky summer months), it is true, before going to bed. You sweat less during the night, so that more of the antiperspirant is aluminum-based medicine is involved in sweat. The effect can last 24 hours or more, even if you take a shower in the morning. If this does not solve the problem, ask your doctorprescription strength antiperspirants contain about as Drysol or Xeraco, the aluminum chloride.

9 Your scalp is scaly
Dandruff is not the problem, the rest of shampoo that makes your scent wild mane. "It 'sa common misconception that dandruff occurs when the scalp is too dry," said Peredo, a myth that people wash their hair makes them less. This, combined with the fact that an irritated scalp may be more of a bacterial culture medium, you can smell your hair."In fact, it happens, dandruff, if your hair is too greasy." Solve the problem: Wash hair with regular shampoo can help, the flakes at bay. Otherwise, try an OTC anti-dandruff shampoos. Enter for those with zinc pyrithione, an antifungal agent / anti-bacterial that can de-seed your scalp (which is found in Head & Shoulders or Selsun Salon), or coal tar, an ingredient that slows the breakdown of cell skin of the process (such as Neutrogena T / Gel). If the scales are still not go away after a few weeks, seeDoctor or dermatologist. You may need a stronger prescription-strength product or lotion steroids.

10 TAKE a prescription drug
Check your medicine cabinet, could be the source of the not-so-fresh breath. Hundreds of prescription drugs and over-the-counter for everything from allergies to high blood pressure for depression can be dry mouth, one of the most common cause of bad breath. They block the action of acetylcholine, a brain chemical that nerves told to turnsalivary glands. Solve the problem: Ask your doctor to adjust the dose or suggest an alternative medication that lists dry mouth as a side effect. Meanwhile, frequent sips of water to stimulate saliva production, which keeps the mouth moist and clean. Limit your intake of coffee and try to breathe through the nose, not mouth, to avoid drying out further. Substitutes OTC saliva can also help keep your mouth moist, according to the Mayo Clinic. Give to those whoCarboxymethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose help thicken the saliva.

They are among the 11 periods
Who knows? Affect the woman's monthly cycle, how much she sweats. The body temperature rises by half a degree mid-cycle when you ovulate, enough to make you sweat even more and tells Mary Jane Minkin ready BO, MD, clinical professor of obstetrics and gynecology at Yale University School of Medicine, and consultant prevention . Then also increase vaginal secretions. Solve the problem: Try one arm strongerAP / Deo mid-cycle (about 14 days from the date of your last period) and wear cotton underwear, moisture can evaporate. If you notice an unusual vaginal smell persistent, have the doctor, could be an infection to be treated.

12 Did you find carbohydrate CUT
Proponents of high protein diet may find surprisingly stinky breath. Ditching bread can slip into your skinny jeans take a toll on your breathing and the entireHealth. Some of these projects that consume high protein content between 30 and 50% of total calories from protein. Since carbohydrates are your body's normal source of energy when you eat too little, you start burning your fat reserves for energy, which free agents of ketones in the blood, according to the American Heart Association. They can feel your breath funky Some describe it as a combination of enamel and ripe pineapple. In addition, the diet with high animalSources of protein can also be too much saturated fat, increasing the risk of heart disease, stroke and cancer. Solve the problem: Cut a whole, not just the calories from carbohydrates to lose weight. It is recommended to consume at least 130 grams of carbohydrates per day, ideally, whole grains, legumes and fruits and vegetables to stay healthy.

13 You Wear when working SPANDEX
Ditch the form-fitting clothes for a less smelly gym session. Strait, synthetic materials, such as spandex, rub against the skin and can interceptSweat. This may be the additional odor and skin irritations, such as folliculitis (inflammation around the hair follicles) and cause acne-like rashes, Peredo said. Solve the problem: Decide for moisture absorption, also antimicrobial. Wool-containing materials, for example, of course, inhibit the growth of odor-causing bacteria (one to try: light, no itching SmartWool). Newer synthetic materials, such as with Cocona fibers are made of recycled coconut shells, the smell repellent yarn (which is located in the Marchesuch as New Balance and Merrell).

14 ARE YOU A FAN OF RUBBER
Sugar-free varieties are better for your teeth, but may make your tummy rumbly thing flatulence. Our body can not fully digest the low-calorie sweeteners such as sorbitol, found in sugarless gum. When bacteria break in the large intestine, can cause gas and diarrhea. Solve the problem: Soothe your sweet tooth take a cup of mint tea. Peppermint oil contains menthol, which appears to have a calming effectEffect on the muscles of the digestive tract, a relief from gas and gas pains. Or drink a half cup of cranberry juice a day. It contains phytochemicals, the odor-causing bacteria in the gut to suppress.

15 Do you have allergies
Runny nose can make a bad smell your breath. If the liquid nasal drip from the sinuses to the back of the throat, can smell your breath. Thus, the breath can especially from the mouth, nasal passages are blocked if, as this dries the mouth. APrevent dry mouth saliva keeps the mouth moist and clean, so that dead cells accumulate more, gums and tongue, cheeks. When these cells to decompose, they produce an odor. Solve the problem: Drink plenty of water, not coffee, soda or alcohol can dehydrate. Decades of clinical studies have also found that nasal irrigation to irrigate, in which the breasts are rinsed with warm salt water, a safe, effective and inexpensive way to mucous membranes, causingHalitosis. Rubber splash, ceramic neti pots, a plastic spray bottle or squeeze as SinuCleanse ENTsol all work well. With hot distilled water and kosher salt 1 / 4 teaspoon per 1 cup of Neti Pot

16 YOUR OFFICE has a policy of "no-shoes"
He slipped his bare feet in pumps? You might have an odor problem at the end of the day. Shorts can be a breeding ground for bacteria, trapping moisture and causing smells stinky feet of the Book Doctors'of home remedies. If you skip wearing socks, there is nothing to absorb the sweat production feet. Solve the problem: You can use a rub antiperspirant on the bottom of the feet and between toes. There is also a good idea to buffer the antifungal foot powder to help your feet will be dry. At night, standing in a dark bathroom to kill the bacteria of 1 part vinegar and two parts water. You could also try a black tea to soak for about 30 minutes. The tannins kill bacteria and seal the pores to keep your feetDrier, more. You will see results within a couple of days a week.

16 Things that make you smell

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