Starting and running a hydroponics garden may seem a daunting task but is actually a walk in the park. All you need is learn the basics and spend ample time fine-tuning your system. Once you have learned the fundamental concepts, set up your hydroponics garden, and have well adjusted all elements and factors, then everything should be running smoothly.
The secret to hydroponics gardening is that "the food is in the water." Designing and setting up your system will focus and depend on this and the types of plants you intend to grow.
So read on to find out more about this secret.
Nutrients: The Perfect Mixture
Foods Your Plant Cannot Live Without
All plants require foods in the form of macronutrients and micronutrients to properly grow and bear the ideal yield. The same is true with hydroponics gardening. The first group is composed primarily of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium and secondarily of calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Some of the micronutrients needed by plants are boron, manganese, copper, zinc, chloride, iron, and molybdenum. In growing your favorite plant, it is a must that you use the perfect mixtures of nutrients that vary according to the particular growth stages they are in or else your investment in them will go down the drain.
These are the foods that your favorite plant needs in order to survive, yield the fruits you want in terms of quantity and quality, and grow healthy enough to reproduce:
Nitrogen: Plants need it in order to produce the proteins and enzymes that are used in photosynthesis and to enable the metabolism processes that are involved in it too. The healthy and right dosage of this nutrient will assure your fruit's quality of leaves and rapid seed production. Phosphorous: It is primarily involved in the creation of oils and starches in plants. It aids in the transformation of energy from the sun into the much-needed chemical energy thus allowing your plant greater stress tolerance and proper maturation. Potassium: It aids in protein building and ensures that plants have greater endurance against diseases. Calcium: It makes the cell walls of plants stronger and provides greater strength to them. Magnesium: It is essential to photosynthesis because it is a major part of chlorophyll. Sulfur: This nutrient enhances the growth of plants and their resistance to cold weather. Boron: It is an essential element in the production of seeds and fruits of plants. Copper: It is an important ingredient in the reproduction processes of plants. Zinc: This regulates plant growth. It produces auxin, which is and essential growth hormone. Zinc is also essential in the plant's root development and starch formation. Iron: An ingredient in chlorophyll creation. Iron deficiency in plants can be minimized by choosing appropriate soil for the plant's growing conditions. Molybdenum: It assists in nitrogen uses. This important nutrient is important in pollen formation. Manganese: Assists in the breakdown of nitrogen and carbohydrates. Magic Mixture Ratios Your Favorite Plants Would Love
Just like children, your favorite plants in your hydroponic garden need the right diet so that they will grow productive and healthy. Too much and too less of any of the nutrients will cause you problems that will cause you mental anguish and financial setbacks. You should take into consideration their growth stages before feeding them any mixture, which are the following:
Vegetative stage refers to that brief period of time where the plant begins photosynthesis. This also refers to the growth period where it develops its height, the thickness of the stems, would-be bud sites, and side branching. Flowering or fruiting stage, which you will find very fulfilling, is the period when your plants will show their sex and bear flowers. The 2:1:1 NPK Ratio
During the vegetative or growing stage in your hydroponic gardening, your plants should be fed a ratio of 2:1:1 nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K). Here are some tips pertaining to the appropriate ratios that can be used during vegetative stage:
A ratio of 20:10:10. This would mean that 20% of the mixture should be composed of nitrogen, 10% should be phosphorous, 10% should be potassium, and the remaining 60% should be composed of secondary macronutrients and micronutrients. A ratio of 30:15:15. This would require 30% of the mixture to be nitrogen, 15% phosphorous, and 15% potassium. The remaining 20% will be consisted of the secondary macronutrients and micronutrients. These mix ratios will give your plants greater resources during photosynthesis and result to better quality of leaves and seeds.
The Flowering Mix
When your favorite plants begin to flower, adjust the ratio to 1:2:2 nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. There should be more phosphorous and potassium than nitrogen in the mix. If you use the 20:10:10 ratio during the growth stage, make use of 10:20:20 ratio during the flowering stage. And if you use the 30:15:15 ratio in the vegetative period, you must use the 15:30:30 ratio during the flowering period. With these ratios, your plants will become stronger and bear greater stress tolerance. Furthermore, it is even suggested that during the flowering stage in your hydroponic gardening project, you can stop feeding your plants with nitrogen and focus on phosphorous, potassium, magnesium, and sulfur. Overfeeding just like in the case of humans could kill.
10 Friendly Tips on Formulation and Feeding
There are two ways to procure the magic mixture and the right ratios. You either purchase pre-formulated nutrients or you formulate them on their own. In the first option, all you have to do is combine a standard quantity prescribed by the manufacturers of the concentrate with water. The second option though is the more cost-efficient and effective because your mixes will be based on what your plants would need. Whichever you choose, there are considerations that you must not forget such as the pH level or acid content of the formula because the ability of the roots to absorb the nutrients will depend on it. Here are some friendly tips you can peruse and consider:
Maintain your formulas' pH level at the best range for your favorite plants, which is 5.8 to 6.5. A level of pH at 1 is acidic, at 7 neutral, and 14 basic. You can measure the pH level by using a chemical test kit that needs replenishment because the materials are consumed or through electronic methods such as pens with LCD monitors that are dipped into the solution. Adjust the ph level if necessary. This can be done by using distilled vinegar. A perfect mixture or balance among phosphoric, nitric, and sulfuric acids is important especially that they maximize the potential benefits that your plants could derive from nutrients such as phosphorous, nitrogen, and sulfur. In order to increase the pH base you can use potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxides. You can use soda as an adjusting agent too. Use alternative hydroponic systems in feeding the nutrients to the plants aside from those that are already in practice. Those systems that are most commonly used are aeroponics, continuous flow solution culture, static solution culture, flood and drain sub-irrigation, passive sub-irrigation, top irrigation, ultrasonic irrigation, and deep-water culture. Alternative feeding systems include the use of coconut fibers that are pre-treated. They have lesser potassium and sodium contents and are very rich with magnesium and calcium, which are both very useful in increasing or improving the growth of your plants. Replace the nutrient solution at an interval of two weeks. Remove the old solution from the reservoir and clean the equipment with hot water to kill any unfriendly bacteria that could have been accumulated. Recycle the old solution. Instead of throwing it away, use it to water the plants. Maintain the level of the water reservoir. Be sure to check on it on a daily basis because water evaporates faster during hot days. Do not overdo the feeding. Too much nutrient could lead to the death of your dear plants and would mean great losses on your part. Dissolve the powdered solution before you place it in the water in the reservoir. If you are using concentrated liquids, better mix them before directly placing them into the water too. Stop nutrient feeding your plants at least seven days prior to their harvest. Continue the water feeding though. Oxygenate your water. You can age tap water for three days by placing it in a container. Ventilation: Managing Heat
Due to the susceptibility of plants to weather changes, it is important that you manage heat well in your hydroponic garden. Some countries have only two seasons: wet and dry; and one of them is Australia. The dry seasons would usually last for six months where temperature is lower. During the wet seasons, which usually takes a period of six months too, there is too much rain and the temperature is high due to increased humidity in the air. For hydroponic growers like you, these weather changes could pose a lot of challenges because with the use of artificial lighting, natural temperature is heightened by the heat exuded by the artificial illumination. The more wattage you use, the greater heat is generated. Too much heat can kill your favorite plants even before they enjoy growth or flowering.
What You Can Do
There are several things that can be done to manage heat--to increase or decrease it. You must learn how to handle heat because they could either be too low or too high. If it is too low, your plants will die with cold; and with it too low their leaves will coil in and eventually die. These are some simple things you can do:
Use air-conditioners or vent systems to regulate airflow and thus the temperature of your hydroponics space. If air conditioners are too expensive for you in terms of electricity usage, then create a vent system. The most common vent systems are those that make hot air flow from the ceiling of your planting area to another room. Other vent systems are installed to exhaust the air through the chimney, walls, or even roofs. You can use simple equipment such as bathroom fans to serve as exhaust. Monitor the humidity and temperature of your hydroponic growth area through a thermometer. Create a system that can clear up the heat in five minutes and in cycles of twenty-five minutes when the artificial lightings are turned on. You need a timer and fan for this type of system. Set up a system that is based on thermostat. It will automatically turn a fan or air-conditioner on when a specific temperature or heat level is reached and will turn off the cooling equipment when the level decrease by at least 4 degrees Celsius. For internal air movement purposes, oscillating fans will do. It will aid carbon dioxide circulation and at the same time will keep down the mounting humidity inside the garden. This is necessary to be done in order to reduce incidence of plant ailments due to fungus and absorb the moisture in the room. To avoid declines in temperature, which usually takes place at night or when your artificial lighting is off, you should install a propane heater that is set to coordinate with a thermostat or timer. If you decide to use a thermostat, set it to detect a temperature fall below 20 degrees Celsius and to turn on the heater and to turn it off once the heat level is at 30 degrees Celsius. Furthermore, this system will provide your plants greater resources of carbon dioxide, which is an essential element in photosynthesis. Installation of a thermo-hygrometer. You can switch it on for a period of twenty-four hours or longer. It will provide you accurate monitoring of the levels of humidity and temperature. Lighting: Fluorescent and HPS
Light is needed by your favorite plant even in your hydroponic garden for photosynthesis and as indicators of weathers and seasons. With hydroponics lighting systems, you could control the time and duration of the exposure of the plants to light for purposes of standardizing the photosynthesis cycles. With them you could also simulate the seasons in order to encourage them to flower and extend the growing season so that you would enjoy year-round supply of your favorite plants and fruits. Imagine that even in seasons of winters, your plants would still continue to grow and prosper. If humans are provided calories by fats, plants get them from light. With artificial lighting, your favored plant could grow as high as six feet tall in three or four months.
Great Artificial Lighting Systems
Your favored hydroponic plant will surely bloom to its fullest potential and give you the best quality and quantity possible through the following artificial lighting systems:
Fluorescent and LED (or light emitting diodes) are best used during the stage where the seedlings of your plants are starting to grow. Metal halide (or MH) and high pressure sodium (HPS) systems would be best for the flowering stage. Fluorescent Bulbs Explained More
Fluorescent bulbs are ideal for seedlings, and because of their low intensity they need to be placed nearer the plants. They should be hanged at least eight to fifteen inches from the plants. They have the following benefits:
Enhancement of the health and strength of seedlings or cuttings Superior root growth and quality Maximize the plant response in terms of photosynthesis Unveiling Metal Halide Bulbs
They provide your hydroponic garden abundant blue and green spectrum light, which is essential in the growth of the plants. With them, you can be assured that your plant's leaf growth would be maximized and they will grow sturdy or compact. Compared to fluorescent and incandescent bulbs, they are best for the flowering stage because their brightness is 125 lumens, which is quite enormous compared to the 18 lumens of incandescent and 39 lumens of fluorescent bulbs. They are both efficient and effective during the vegetative and flowering stages.
HPS Bulbs at Their Best
High pressure sodium bulbs are considered as best for the enhancement of the budding and flowering processes of your favored plants because they emit light of the red and yellow spectrum. In other words, they are bulbs emitting light that closely imitates natural light. Most users prefer them during the flowering stage of their hydroponic garden.
Basic Lighting Tips You Must Practice
Whatever your preferred system is for your hydroponic garden, you should not forget to do the following in order to maximize your plants' health, growth, and reproduction:
For two months, continuously expose the young plant or seedlings to light. When in vegetation stage, illuminate them at twenty-two hours in a day; and when they are flowering, keep them lighted at a maximum of twelve hours a day. Keep the light close to the plants, but never allow them to touch even the leaves. When the edges of their leaves curl, it means that they are overheated. During the vegetation stage, use bulbs that emit blue or red bands of the spectrum. Metal halide lamps provide the blue light; and fluorescent, the red light. Minimum light exposure is twenty watts per foot. You can go much higher but not too high or else your plants may fry and not too low because they might droop. Fix the lamps to the roof to afford you flexibility. As the plants grow taller, you can raise the bulbs higher. Use reflectors to ensure uniform illumination among all your plants. Those that do not get sufficient light as the others would grow disfigured, taller, and thinner. Plan and design a daily lighting cycle. If you will not do this, your plants will grow poorly. And if you wake them up when they already have been accustomed that it is the dark period of the day, they will be traumatized and could become ill. Paint your walls, roofs, and even floors with white to provide greater light reflection capacity of your space. Brighten the days of your favorites and make them feel loved and cared for. Clones: Increasing the Success Rate of Your Hydroponic Gardening
Cloning is simply taking a cutting from your growing plant and placing it together with other cuttings in a separate pot or container. Be sure that the clone you choose comes from female plants. When properly taken cared of, they will become mature plants that are exact copies of the original or source plants. It is a method that would surely aid you in controlling the quality of your plants, seeds, and their fruits. The clones grow faster than those that are raised from seeds, and this will make your time usage more efficient.
Useful Tips to Improve Your Success Rates
Clones are very effective tools in reproducing your plants in your hydroponic project. You must take extra care though to ensure the success or else you will just be wasting time, energy, and money on them. These are useful tips that could help you:
Only clone plants that are healthy, well developed, and have enhanced flowering capabilities. Take more cuttings than you need to plant so that you will have a wider range of choices. Choose among them the best. Before taking a cutting, remove the nitrogen from the source plant by feeding it heavily with water that is pH adjusted and without any fertilizer or nutrient for at least two and maximum of three days. If you fail to do this, you will impede the growth of the roots of the clones. Choose well the media that you will use for your clones. You can make use of cubes that are pre-formed and contain holes fit for the cuttings. You should cut holes in the top of the medium that would be of the same size or circumference as the stems of your clones. Take extra care when you cut. Do not forget to sterilize your cutting equipment before you proceed with the cloning process because you might infect the mother plant. Be sure that when you cut, you do it quickly in order to keep air from being shot into the stem. The clone should be between three and six inches long--no more and no less. There should at least be one leaf inter-node and if possible, two inter-nodes. Place the cuttings in a misting dome where they will be artificially moisturized two to three times in a day. Keep them well ventilated too by cutting small holes on the top of the dome. Maintain their temperature at 72 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Use double tube fluorescents that emit white light--both cold and warm. Keep them close to the clones at a distance of one or two inches. In case you use an artificial lighting system that utilizes metal halide bulbs or high pressure sodium lamps, keep the cuttings at a distance of two or three feet if the light source is between 175 and 400 watts. If the bulbs' wattage is at least a thousand, keep them at a distance of at least four feet. Keep the cuttings illuminated at least eighteen hours a day. Water the clones every two days with distilled water with nutrients. If the external temperature is high, you can water them once a day. Do not make the mistake of submerging or setting them in water because the stems will become rotten or decayed. In about a week, check on the clones. If you see that they have started to root, stop the misting or artificial moisturizing procedures. If they have properly rooted already, remove them from the dome and plant them. Harvest: Curing the Correct Way
The Right Time to Harvest Your Hydroponic Garden
If you have reached as far as this, it only means one thing: you have been successful with your plants' growth and flowering stages. You have won over the challenges of hydroponic gardening and triumphantly circumvented the adversities of raising your beloved fruits. The average harvest time is after eight to twelve weeks of flowering. You must remember that they are best harvested when trichomes production or THC level is at a maximum. An indicator of this is when at least a third of their pistils or hairs have turned from white to dark such as brownish or reddish in color. Use a magnifying glass to monitor the pistils. Do not over-wait though until all of the pistils are dark because it will decrease the value of your plants.
Potency and quantity are two non-parallel objectives in harvesting. If the former is your goal, you should harvest when the THC level production is at its maximum and your harvested plants will weigh lesser but their quality would be a lot better. If the latter is your target, then harvest them after all the pistils are dark.
Drying to Improve Quality
After harvest, you have to separate the leaves from the buds. The next step would be to dry and cure them. You must not forget that your leaves and buds leave a bad taste in the mouth and have harsh aroma if they are used or consumed right after harvest. They must be dried to take out or evaporate the water from them. The curing step will complete the drying process and completely transform the leaves of your plants to bearers of good dreams and magic. Here are some things you must do when drying your plants:
Hang them in an environment that is dry, dark, and cool. Keep the temperature at 20 degrees Celsius or 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Too much heat and light will destroy their quality. Do not directly handle the plants. Avoid damaging the quality of the heads, buds, and leaves by contaminating them with dirt or the sweat of your hands. Separate the large branches and wider leaves in order for you to give better drying exposure to the smaller branches and narrower leaves. Keep the drying branches at a distance of half a foot. When they are too close to each other, your plants might attract mold; and when they are too far from each other, they will be dried faster than what is necessary. Both situations will lead to the loss of potency and decrease in quality. The average drying period is between a week and three weeks. To check if your plants have properly dried up already, take some branches and bend them. If they would snap at an angle of 90 degrees or less, it means that your plants are well dried already. If they will not, then you have to let them dry some more. The Magic of Curing
Curing is an important procedure in your hydroponic gardening project as they are responsible for transforming your plants into marketable products with quality that is of high commercial values. Just be sure that before you do any of the steps related to curing, you have properly dried them. Observe the following tricks and for sure, you would enjoy the triumph that you have longed for:
Place in air-tight containers your plants. Store the containers in a room where the temperature is stabilized at 20 degrees Celsius. Be sure that no light will permeate the room because it will damage the product. Any remaining moisture in the contents of the sealed containers will definitely evaporate and cling to the internal surface of the containers. Slowly open the lids and let the extra moisture escape. Do this during the first week at an interval of twenty-four hours for about a period of thirty minutes. During the second week, repeat the process at an interval of forty-eight hours. Repeat this in the third week and other succeeding weeks if necessary until all condensation is removed. Watch out for possible decay caused by too much moist. Signs of decay include a smell that is the same to that of compost and new grass clippings. Keep the dried plants that are not so green anymore stored in air-tight containers that should be placed in a place with a temperature of twenty degrees Celsius. Keeping them in a fridge would help a lot in avoiding exposure to contamination, heat, and light that could cause deterioration of quality and shortening of shelf life. Keep them untouched for several weeks or months. Prevention and Eradication
The prevention and eradication of bugs have been one of the most important concerns among hydroponic planters and scientists in agriculture. With the advent of more scientific researches and methods in studying bugs, modern science have came up with innovative methods to counter the growth and prevent the existence of bugs. The most recent and effective so far is biological pest control. This method is simple and only requires that friendly bugs are introduced to the environment to counter the damage of harmful bugs.
The Predator Bugs You Must Destroy in Your Hydroponic Garden
At different stages, your plant could suffer from different kinds of bugs. You should be familiar with them so that you will know how to prevent and destroy them. During the growth of the seedling of your plants the following bugs could infest them and either kill or damage them:
Cutworms: Larvae of the turnip moths. They feed on the leaves, stems, and buds of young seedlings. Hemp flea beetles: They are very small jumping beetles that eat the leaves of seedlings. Crickets: They are harmful to humans but very deadly to plants because they feed on leaves and buds, especially those that are just at their early growth. When your plants grow taller and develop wider leaves and when they also start to flower, the following bugs would surely give you tons of headaches unless prevented:
Spider mites: They are very small and almost invisible to the human eyes. They reproduce at a very fast rate; and before you know it, they have destroyed your whole crop. The proof of their presence is usually the occurrence of dead spots on the leaves. When they have powerfully infested your plants, the leaves will turn yellow, almost the shade of bronze. Aphids: They are also called plant lice and are very common in temperate zones. They feed on the sap of plants and are most likely to damage the flowers even before they bloom. Whiteflies: They look like fruit flies but are more devious because they chew on the leaves and flowers of your dear plants. Leafhoppers: Taxonomy wise, they are like grasshoppers just pretty smaller. They thrive on green leaves. Other bugs that could infect the stems, stalks, and roots are the following:
European corn borers: They are generally found in corns, but they have also been observed to damage your favorite plants' stems. Hemp borers: Most of the time they infest fruits, but they also love the stalks of your green healthy produce. Weevils: They prefer dry plants or environment. They are dangerous destroyers of stalks and stems. Root maggots: They feed on the roots of plants. They damage the osmosis capability of the roots. Termites and ants: Self-organized insects that feed on the roots and are capable of adapting to whatever environment the plants are in. Fungus gnats: They are dark small flies with short lives but vicious effect on the roots they infest. The Best Solutions
There are many available solutions that would help you eradicate and prevent bug infestation of your favored plants. Five of these techniques are the following:
Biological pest control through the use of a beneficial or small animal that eats the bugs that damage your plants. They control adult pests and destroy their young, eggs, and larva. Some examples are predatory mites to counter greenhouse mites, nematodes for weevils, lace wing for aphids, and parasitic wasp for white flies. Bio-best spray that either come in concentrates or spray cans. All you have to do is spray it on the affected leaves. Sticky plates that serve as the alarm systems, and they draw bugs because of their yellow color. Plant protectors that emit odors that are bug repellants. Neem oil that damages the nervous systems of bugs. Sound Preventive Measures
Eradication could be very expensive, and prevention could cost you nothing at all. Here are some suggestions that you may consider to prevent bugs infestations in your growth room:
Always clean your tools before and after using them. Maintain proper drainage to ensure cleanliness of the area. Do not overwater because the unused water can become the haven of bugs. Quarantine infected plants to prevent others from being infested too. The Perpetual Harvest: Sea of Green Techniques
These techniques involve the harvesting of batches of small plants that mature early. They refer to that method in hydroponic gardening where smaller plants are grown over shorter periods of time instead of growing few big plants over a long period of time. With hydroponics where the environment is controlled from lighting to ventilation, it is possible to start one batch at an earlier time, and as they mature, another batch is started. This method results to a year-round growing and harvesting cycle. Another way of doing this is starting all the plants together and creating a green canopy where you let your plant be harvested more times than once. Taller plants will be harvested from the top first without uprooting them. As the plant grows some more, the earlier lower level becomes the top that is ready for harvest.
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